Today, we’ll explore the history of climbing Mount Fuji, Japan’s most iconic peak.
Every year, nearly 300,000 climbers from all over the world ascend Mount Fuji during the official climbing season, which lasts two months from July to September. While modern climbs are primarily for tourism, Mount Fuji’s origins as a climbing destination are deeply rooted in religious practices known as tohai (pilgrimage climbing).
In ancient times, Mount Fuji was revered as a sacred mountain and worshipped from afar through yohai—a practice of gazing at the mountain from a distance. It wasn’t until the Edo period that tohai became popular among ordinary people. Before then, only ascetic practitioners known as shugenja were permitted to climb the mountain.
So who was the first person to climb Mount Fuji? When did this tradition begin? Let’s dive into its history.
Ancient Climbing Legends
Our knowledge of ancient climbs comes from historical texts, though many accounts are steeped in legend rather than verified fact. For example:
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Prince Shōtoku is said to have ridden his horse to the summit of Mount Fuji.
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En no Gyōja, the founder of Shugendō, is believed to have walked across the sea from Izu Ōshima and trained on Mount Fuji.
The earliest written record describing Mount Fuji’s summit comes from Fujisan-ki (The Record of Mount Fuji), compiled by the Heian-period nobleman Miyako no Yoshika in the early 9th century. Yoshika’s account includes detailed descriptions of the summit:
“At the top, there is a flat plain about one ri wide. In its center lies a crater resembling an inverted rice steamer, with a sacred pond at its base and a large rock shaped like a crouching tiger.”
This description closely matches modern observations, suggesting either that Yoshika himself climbed the mountain or that he recorded accounts from others who did. However, since this period coincided with frequent eruptions, it is unclear when or how these early climbs occurred.
The Beginnings of Pilgrimage Climbing (Tohai)
By the late Heian period, as volcanic activity subsided, pilgrimage climbing began in earnest.
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1149 CE: A Shugendō practitioner named Matsudai established Dainichi Temple at the summit of Mount Fuji, laying the foundation for tohai. Known as “Fuji Shōnin” (Master of Fuji), Matsudai popularized climbing routes starting from Fujisan Hongu Sengen Taisha Shrine and passing through Murayama Sengen Shrine. This route became known as the Omiya-Murayama Trail and marked the beginning of organized pilgrimage climbing.
During the Kamakura and Muromachi periods, Fuji Shugendō flourished. The Silk Painting of the Fuji Mandala, created in the late Muromachi period, depicts pilgrims purifying themselves at Sengen Shrines before ascending in long processions to worship at the summit.
Edo Period: The Rise of Fuji-ko
The Edo period saw a dramatic shift in Mount Fuji worship with the emergence of Hasegawa Kakugyō, a key figure in establishing Fuji-ko (Mount Fuji devotional groups).
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Kakugyō meditated in Hitoana Cave and received divine revelations from Sengen Daibosatsu (the deity associated with Mount Fuji).
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He successfully climbed Mount Fuji via the Yoshida Trail and spread his teachings throughout Japan, gaining numerous followers.
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His successor, Jikigyō Miroku, further popularized Fuji-ko, leading to an explosion of organized pilgrimages during this time. By mid-Edo period, over 800 Fuji-ko groups were active in Edo (modern-day Tokyo).
The Yoshida Trail became particularly prominent after Jikigyō Miroku entered meditation at Eboshi Rock near the 7th Station in 1733. This event solidified Yoshida Trail’s status as a central pilgrimage route. At its peak, pilgrims were guided by experienced leaders (sendatsu) and hosted by local shrine families (oshi) in Yoshida.
However, like many sacred mountains in Japan, Mount Fuji was off-limits to women due to religious customs. Female pilgrims could only ascend as far as 2nd Station’s Oshino Sengen Shrine until these restrictions were gradually lifted.
Breaking Barriers: Women and Foreign Climbers
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1832: Oyama Tatsuko became the first woman to climb Mount Fuji when she accompanied a group led by Otani Sanshi during a snowy ascent via Yoshida Trail.
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1860: British diplomat Rutherford Alcock became the first foreigner to reach Mount Fuji’s summit despite initial opposition from Tokugawa authorities. He climbed via Omiya-Murayama Trail with nearly 100 guards accompanying him due to political tensions during Japan’s isolationist era.
By 1872 (Meiji 5), women were officially allowed to climb Mount Fuji following government reforms.
Modernization and Decline of Pilgrimage Climbing
With advancements in transportation during the Meiji era—such as railways—Mount Fuji became increasingly accessible to climbers from all walks of life. However:
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After World War II, traditional pilgrimage climbing (tohai) declined significantly.
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The opening of Subaru Line Road in 1964 further shifted focus toward recreational tourism rather than spiritual devotion.
Today’s climbers may not share the same religious motivations as their predecessors, but they continue to honor Mount Fuji’s legacy by ascending its sacred slopes.
Conclusion
From ancient legends and religious pilgrimages to modern tourism, climbing Mount Fuji has evolved over centuries while retaining its cultural significance. Whether for faith or adventure, reaching Japan’s highest peak remains an unforgettable experience for millions worldwide.
